|The M&S Grill goes into the brunch biz|
Kansas City's M&S Grill began offering Sunday brunch last month, perhaps hoping to steal a little Sunday business from its closest Plaza restaurant rival, Figlio, which has long offered a respectable and popular (and modestly priced) brunch just around the corner.
The Country Club Plaza has a number of brunch options on Sundays now, ranging from the vastly over-rated buffet at Tomfooleries (which is cheap by most brunch standards, but disappointing) to the glamorous breakfast set-up in the Oak Room at the InterContinental Hotel.
M&S Grill's Sunday brunch, served from 10:30 a.m. to 2:30
p.m., costs $18.95 for adults and $8.95 for children ages 7 to 12. The price includes a beverage, which isn't always the case
for Plaza brunches, where a cup of java can run nearly three bucks. And chef Joe Noblitt's menu is ambitious.
Meals begin with a basket of warm cinnamon rolls -- fried squares of pastry rolled in cinnamon and sugar. Fans of these pastry puffs compare them to Louisiana-style beignets, but that's really pushing it. These rolls are much more in the spirit of the sweet-salty cinnamon squares at Stoud's, but much bigger.
For drinkers, there's a make-your-own Bloody Mary option. And there's a build-your-own granola parfait station for those who insist on doing things their own damn way. The breakfast pastries and fresh fruit were third-rate on the morning I dined at the brunch, not even Sara Lee quality. But that was admittedly the first Sunday, when Noblitt and his staff still had some issues to work out. We were excited to see smoked salmon and all the accoutrements on the cold buffet -- but no bagels!
The Southwestern egg strata on the buffet line of hot dishes was too dry, but the corned beef hash with poarched eggs was terrific and the blackened chicken penne in a Cajun cream sauce was delicious.
I'll definitely be back.