Testing the sweets at Baked In Kansas City

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A crusty, sugary almond croissant at Baked in Kansas City bakery and cafe. - ASHFORD STAMPER
  • Ashford Stamper
  • A crusty, sugary almond croissant at Baked in Kansas City bakery and cafe.

An unexpected guest was at the three-day-old Baked in Kansas City bakery and café last week: former Napoleon Bakery pastry chef Guillaume Hanriot, who was there with his wife, Ingrid, and their newborn, Pauline. The Hanriots purchased the Parkville bistro Café des Amis last year, after running the restaurant for six years.

"I was the pastry chef here when Larry Schanzer still owned it," Guillaume Hanriot told me, as he handled one of the delicate macarons created by Baked in Kansas City's pastry chef, Nicolette Foster. "I took a tour of the kitchen to see what had changed."
A lot has changed since Frank Sebree, owner of the Majestic Restaurant, overhauled the brick building at 706 Westport Road to create a combination bakery and full-service restaurant.

That morning, the pastry cases were filled with Foster's work: flaky croissants, including a luscious, sugarcoated almond version and a pain au chocolat that needed a touch more chocolate; three versions of tart-shaped coffeecakes; sweet and savory scones; and plump sausage rolls encased in a sheath of light pastry. The latter were very tasty but dominated by a strong, stone-ground mustard. The square, thickly iced cinnamon rolls were more Midwestern than French - that is, as fat as Don Hall's overstuffed wallet but not as rich.

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