Look, you're either going to get behind a meal plan that fills your belly with cashew meat and jackfruit "tuna," or you're going to fill your carbon footprint with barbecue sauce and keep swimming with the steers. Heidi VanPelt-Belle's vegan restaurant is more niche than game changer. But that's fine because the food here is as delicious and rare as that one secret you'll never disclose. Whether your PETA membership is paid up or you've sneaked away from the American Royal, there's a dish to hook you. (Oh, vegan nachos with lemony, nondairy sour cream, what kept you all these years?) But what this earnest, Fruit Stripe-gum-colored bubble of interspecies good will does best is texture. This isn't bland protein put through an old Play-Doh burger mold. At the center of every supple, savory main dish is something that feels sliced or pulled off a hunk of something else — wild-rice "meat" is the big star. As much as that might horrify doctrinaire herbivores, it's a mighty satisfying trick on the mouth, and you won't experience it anywhere else in town.
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