It's always jarring to hear someone answer a business phone line with a jaded "What?" instead of a "May I help you?" -- even when the name of the business happens to be What? And once customers visit the place, stocked with offensive-humor T-shirts ("Sleeps well with others," "Inbred"), incense sticks, too-cool clerks and a tattoo parlor, they might wonder whether that surly salutation is just a coincidence. The owners might have christened this self-described supplier of "urban streetwear and novelties," but it's the staff that sells the question as part of a hip-to-the-point-of-anguished-ennui lifestyle.