Best Neighborhood Restaurant, East

Big Biscuit

Taking his cue from Field of Dreams, Dan Gerson decided that if he could bake the perfect biscuit, people would come to his roadhouse-style diner. And they do, arriving from all over the metro to fill up on inexpensive but hefty platters of country classics. Here, diners can order their eggs with ham, bacon, Italian sausage, beef tenderloin, corned-beef hash or chicken-fried steak -- and fluffy, baseball-sized biscuits. Gerson knows that in this health-conscious age, not all of his customers want meals that stick to the ribs (and every other body part), so he's added oatmeal, a low-carb breakfast and a "workout scramble" made with egg substitute. But most folks want a version of what hungry farmhands ate over a century ago: biscuits smothered in sausage gravy; pancakes (Gerson offers 10 variations, from blueberry to bacon to banana pecan); and a "Country Benedict" made with biscuits, scrambled eggs, sausage and gravy. Metro diners invade the neighborhood, making the Big Biscuit a 40 Highway institution.
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