The City Tavern, which is only a few blocks away from the venerable original Hereford House, isn't generally known as a steak joint -- and, frankly, there's not that much beef on the menu (just an 8-ounce filet, a 22-ounce ribeye and a 12-ounce Kansas City strip). But the strip, a slab of choice beef dry-aged for 15 days, has its devoted fans, perhaps because simplicity is the secret of success: Order a strip, and one of the line cooks sprinkles it with salt and pepper and tosses it on the gas grill. "It's all about the temperature of the grill," says kitchen manager Craig Christopher. "It can't be too hot. It has to let the meat cook until there's a nice, crusty caramelization. You want golden marks, not black, charred burn marks." Once it's off the grill, diners can dress it up with one of City Tavern's sauces, but it may be best naked. No good strip should be too covered up.