BEST INDIAN RESTAURANT

Seva Cuisine of India

Critics' Choice

Seva Cuisine of India owner Gurdev Deol was once a restaurant health inspector for Kansas City, and it shows. He's so exacting that he doesn't serve samosas because he can't find a product that meets his rigid food-safety requirements. What Deol does offer, in addition to many shiny, spotless surfaces, is an array of outstanding vegetable, chicken and lamb dishes, including excellent representations of the greatest hits of the conventional Indian culinary repertoire: curries, kormas, butter chicken, a kick-ass vindaloo or two. The spicy dishes call for more than iced tea or soda, so Deol offers wine and beer, including a German riesling that works nicely with tandoori chicken.

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