BEST FRIES

LC's Bar-B-Q

Critics' Choice

They're frying fatties — big, steak-style fries — at LC's Bar-B-Q. The East Side barbecue shack's thick taters pull off a serious feat: They please the two fry factions. Fans of mushy spuds like these plumper-than-a-pickle mothers. Fans of crispy fries know when they're dealing with truly crisp tips. What makes LC's a kind of fry ambassador, brokering a truce between the two sides of a classic debate, is a simple combination: heat and speed. These things practically fly at your face right out of the fryer. Even a couple of minutes into the drive back to the office, you're going to burn the roof of your mouth if you dip into the bag. And you will dip. Resistance is futile. This is why we keep a salt shaker in the glove compartment.

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