If Stephenson's famous chicken, baked in heavy cream and butter, was good enough for the Better Homes & Gardens cookbook, damn it, it's good enough for diners needing a trip back to their childhoods (or the childhood they wished they had). This 56-year-old restaurant serves the kind of dishes that were supposedly the staples of grandmother's Sunday supper table, circa 1946: brisket, hickory-smoked chicken, steak and the restaurant's signature baked chicken. Almost as good as the rich, fork-tender bird is all the stuff that comes with it: a little crock of green-rice casserole, hot breads, fried apple fritters dusted with powdered sugar, and marshmallow salad, a postwar concoction of marshmallows, whipped cream and canned pineapple. It's all better than a megadose of Prozac. And cheaper.