The concept of an all-you-can-eat buffet is sometimes more exciting than the reality. It's wonderful to have dozens of choices on some of the more elaborately laden buffets in town, but sometimes the tables piled with rubbery crab legs, overcooked prime rib, salty enchiladas, gloppy Chinese fare and sugary desserts look a lot better than they taste. Not true with the venerable Peachtree Buffet, which sticks to a limited but solid number of freshly prepared Southern dishes. The salad bar isn't much, but the fried chicken is excellent, as are the fluffy yeast rolls and corn muffins. Other options for piling on plates: baked chicken, cornmeal-crusted fried catfish, creamy macaroni and cheese, candied yams, comforting greens, beef ribs, rice, baked fish, and spaghetti -- all that before second helpings. But it's dangerous to get too stuffed before sidling up to the chafing dishes filled with peach cobbler and the best bread pudding in the city. Prices are reasonable, and the atmosphere is downright inspiring. After all, it isn't every local restaurant that has gospel music playing in the background.