Watermelon Oreo cookies? A limited edition, thank goodness

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There are few things as pleasurable as a slice of watermelon on a brutally hot day. But does watermelon really have a flavor? It does: pink sugar water with a subtle, almost evanescent hint of melon. Any melon does, by the way, including cantaloupe or honeydew. The bland sweetness of the fruit makes it ideal for salads (particularly teamed with a salty cheese like feta or a brash arugula), for bubble gum, for sorbets, and for Nabisco's 2013 Limited Edition Watermelon Oreo sandwich cookies.

It would have been a lot more daring for Nabisco to pair its pastel pink-and-green cream "watermelon" filling with the traditional chocolate hard cookie instead of the nearly flavorless "Golden" version. I'm not the first to bite into one of these cookies and have an immediate flashback to watermelon-flavored bubble gum (the gang of the Huffington Post did, last week), but who wants a cookie that tastes like Double Bubble?

Or, the more provocative question might be: Who wants a cookie that tastes like watermelon?

I couldn't find the limited-edition watermelon cookies in my neighborhood supermarket, but Target had them, of course. As I tucked the 15-ounce package into my cart, another shopper stopped and asked me: "What do watermelon Oreos taste like?"

I confessed that I hadn't tasted them yet.

The shopper looked warily at the package and said, "I prefer plain Oreos. I don't know why they have to go and make weird versions of things."

This cookie - even without the Oreo logo stamped onto the hard surface - is pretty weird. There is a vaguely watermelon-like flavor to the filling, but to definitively label it as watermelon is like saying that a hamburger tastes like ham. The aftertaste, by the way, lasts for an hour after the cookie has been digested. But if you must eat them, here are a couple of tips: The cookies are much more palatable frozen, and they're actually quite good paired with tortilla chips and a really fiery salsa.

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